My heart went out to my patient Katie. She had long, thick chestnut hair the last time I saw her. But at this visit, I almost didn’t recognize her.
Katie’s hair had fallen out in clumps leaving bald spots at the crown and on the sides of her head. She had cut 10 inches off to remove burnt orange frizz. Her scalp carried mean looking scars. Over the last two years she had spent thousands of dollars on weaves and hair extensions trying to repair the damage.
What happened? Katie had fallen prey to the beauty industry’s false advertising. She had given herself an at-home keratin treatment.
Keratin is a protein that’s found naturally in your hair and nails. Keratin hair treatments promise to end frizz and give you smooth manageable locks. You just apply a keratin solution to your hair and then use a hot flat iron to seal it into each strand.
If all goes well, the results may keep hair from frizzing in humidity for 2 to 3 months. But keratin products can seriously backfire on you. The same chemical that makes your hair sleek and shiny can leave you with singed hair and bald spots.
That chemical is formaldehyde. And yes, you read that correctly. These products use the same chemical morticians use for embalming dead bodies.
Katie had no idea formaldehyde was in her hair treatment. There’s a good chance it’s in your hair products, too.
Formaldehyde Hidden In Most Hair Products
The International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies formaldehyde as a known human carcinogen. It’s linked to nasal cancer and leukemia. It irritates eyes and skin. It can also cause headaches, allergies, asthma, and chronic fatigue.
So what’s formaldehyde doing in your hair products?
Most countries outlaw formaldehyde. But the beauty industry in the U.S. is largely unregulated.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel says beauty products shouldn’t contain more than 0.2% formaldehyde. But their recommendations aren’t binding. And they’re widely ignored.
In fact, the Oregon OSHA tested more than 100 samples of hair-smoothing products. Most had between 1% and 7% formaldehyde.1
And here’s what I find most shocking. One product with almost 12% formaldehyde was labeled “formaldehyde-free.” So was the product Katie used.
How can that happen?
Keratin treatments won’t list “formaldehyde” as an ingredient. But they contain preservatives that release formaldehyde when heated or dried.
You see, formaldehyde is actually the secret ingredient that straightens hair. It bonds the product to the hair. That makes the strands stiff and smoothes frizz.
And these chemicals are NOT just in keratin treatments. Chemical preservatives in nearly ALL hair care products – including shampoos and conditioners – release formaldehyde. On the label look for these dead giveaways:
- Tetrasodium EDTA
- Methylene glycol
- Formalin
- Bronopol
- DMDM hydantoin
- Glydant
- Diazolidinyl urea
- Imidzaolidinyl urea
- Quaternium-15
Remember – you can’t rely on “formaldehyde-free” claims on the label. You have to read the ingredients list.
Get Smooth, Shining Hair Safely and Naturally
The good news is there are safe and natural ways to smooth hair and quiet frizzing without having your hair fall out.
Look for products with natural oils and butters to add luster to your hair. Jojoba, avocado, coconut oil, and shea butter naturally add moisture and seal it in.
Citrus ingredients also wash away dirt so hair lies flat and looks shiny and smooth. Look for sodium citrate or citric acid in the ingredient list.
And choose products with panthenol, a form of vitamin B-5. It’s often called “Pro-vitamin B-5.” Panthenol spreads evenly over the surface of hair strands and forms a smooth, transparent film. That film reflects light and makes your hair look glossy. The coating also resists knots and tangles, making hair smooth.
Panthenol also gets absorbed into the deep cortex of hair strands where it can repair damage from coloring, perming and other hair processes. It thickens hair follicles and helps them lock in moisture.
Don’t let your dreams of luxurious hair go down the drain. And remember: Check your hair products. Reply to this email and let me know if you find formaldehyde.
To Your Good Health,
Al Sears, MD
1. U.S. Department of Labor OSHA Hazard Alert Update, September 21, 2011. osha.gov/SLTC/formaldehyde/hazard_alert.html